Hello, friends! It has been a while, hasn’t it? For the last few weeks, I’ve been on summer break from teaching. I’ve been doing my best to rest, and get a little adventuring in while I’m at it. And that brings me to the topic at hand: Bangkok.

I had the privilege of traveling to Bangkok, Thailand with two of my fellow teachers for a few days. While the food was amazing (as expected) and the architecture beautiful, I was particularly struck by how dark the city seemed to be—in all the ways.

But what do I mean by “dark?” Well, as a missionary, I often think about the spiritual warfare that is constantly happening all around us. Japan is—spiritually speaking—a dark country that doesn’t know God. Only one percent of people in Japan are Christians. Thailand is no different. Like Japan, only one percent of the population identifies as Christian. Compare that to the U.S., where some 76% identify as Christian (although only ~16% are identified as “captive,” or committed Christians, according to George Barna’s research. But that’s a different issue…)

Sometimes this darkness is seen directly in religious practices, and sometimes it’s seen in the general state of society.

What the Guide Books Don’t Tell You

Quick Disclaimer:

I did not traverse throughout the entirety of Bangkok; my observation is limited to only two days of travel. But I am going to cover some of the things about Bangkok that surprised me a bit. (Read: things people don’t put in the travel guides.)

Thank you.

Public Health & Safety

First off: Bangkok is a dirty city. The amount of garbage and dirt that’s piled up is worrisome in regards to public health. Perhaps it’s the nature of such a condensed, urban area, but then again, I live in Japan that is just as condensed, but it’s freakishly clean here.

Public safety was also especially troubling to me. I couldn’t believe how many people I saw carrying infants in their arms on the backs of motorcycles. I genuinely feared for the lives of those kids. Now, I understand the necessity for motorbikes in Bangkok. It’s the only way to get anywhere in a timely fashion, but I mean. Come on.

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Maybe this is just my privilege showing through, but I think everyone can agree on wanting a clean, safe environment for not only themselves, but for their children. I was greatly saddened that these aspects of daily life are something that people in Bangkok live with. Anything that is less than good for us is a product of sin. And not necessarily sin from people directly. Just the sin that exists in the world as a result of the fall of Adam and Eve.

Scams Galore

Moreover, the amount of scamming and underhanded business tactics that I saw (and sometimes was on the receiving end of) was alarming. Granted, having an attempted scam to ride a tuk tuk is relatively benign, but the fact that this is the standard protocol for business is disconcerting. It’s willful manipulation of others. Perhaps business is rough now, but I truly think your business would do better if you were upfront and honest in the first place.

Prostitution

Finally, we cannot forget the biggest problem of Thailand: prostitution. Declared illegal in 1960, prostitution is still thriving, and is considered a part of the very fabric of society in Thailand. Many people don’t believe prostitution is good, but they are also not willing to change their society to help those in the industry. Moreover, locals and tourists alike take advantage of the underground prositution hidden in karaoke bars, massage parlors, and bars catered specifically to tourists.

I actively avoided the red light district in Bangkok. I did not want to witness the rights of these people being violated so lightly. It’s disgusting. But even so, I would see them under the highway overpasses at night. Many women, especially, feel obligated by their culture and religion to take care of their family by whatever means necessary. For some, this means entering prostitution.

But what’s even more disgusting is that only the prostitute in question is arrested if caught. The customer gets off scot-free. There is no love or desire to truly help the people that are in the industry. They’re on their own.

The prostitution culture, of course, has led to problems with HIV/AIDS, human trafficking, and child prostitution.

These social norms in Bangkok were clear indicators of the sin and darkness that rests in the city. I did not see love. I did not see God. Only darkness. And that’s only in society…

The Temples & Religion

Feeling this spiritual darkness in the temples wasn’t a surprise to me. They’re temples that are built for the worship of Buddha, as well as several other gods and figures from both the Theravada Buddhism and Hindu traditions. Anything that worships something that is not God, the Creator, feels off-putting to me.

My friends and I went to Wat Suthat, a smaller temple in Bangkok, and there happened to be a service at that time. We could hear the chanting echoing throughout the grounds from the loudspeaker, and could hear a multitude of voices from the main hall. It was unsettling. Combine that with the ring of Buddhas lining the temple grounds, and the beautifully captivating architecture at every turn.

Normally, I just feel sad in temples and shrines. I’ve visited plenty of temples and shrines in Japan, and I often think: “It’s so sad that such beautiful artistry and care is being used to worship something that isn’t the true God.” I’m not angry or anything. Just sad. I want to see this beautiful display of craftsmanship and culture devoted to God, not to something else.

But it felt different in Thailand. The same sadness regarding the level of care and devotion to the temples exists, but there’s a strong feeling of “wrong” in Thailand for me. In Japan, most people don’t really believe in Buddhism. It’s more a habit of tradition than anything else. But in Thailand, Buddhist worship is fervent and strong. This is a religion that people truly believe in. It has real intention and belief behind it.

This discomfort was the same in the other temples, too. Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun held similar vibes, minus the chanting service. Buddhas everywhere, declaring their presence in the temples. With the amount of statues in each temple, it’s really difficult to forget that it’s a Buddhist temple. It seems like the more Buddhas, the better. Of course this could just be my own ignorance, but that’s my feeling.

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But nothing in these temples felt appealing. The faces of the Buddhas and bodhisattvas are haunting, the guardian statues resembling monster-like demigods and spirits were frightening, and the murals on the walls depicted scenes of warfare, carnal acts, hell and death.

I couldn’t figure out the stories. I couldn’t figure out what comfort or peace people could find in this imagery. All I knew was that I like our story in Christianity better. The story of hope and new life in Christ.

My Response

In the first temple, Wat Suthat, I honestly found myself praying and reciting Scripture in the temple. Admittedly, I don’t have a very good rote memory of the Bible, so I ended up reciting John 1:1-5 (because I’ve taught it at least 50 times now). And John 1:3 stuck with me.

Through him all things were made; without him nothing was made that has been made.

John 1:3 (NIV)

And I realized that none of these temples—or even the city of Bangkok—would be here if it weren’t for God. God, in all His sovereign power, created everything, which then enabled humanity to build houses of worship for either Himself…or for something else. To build societies that bring Him glory…or sit in the shadow of sin.

My friends and I pondered this for a moment. Why? Why would God allow this?

But then it hit me.

Everything brings God glory in the end, even these temples and this broken society. Everything that is broken in this world brings God glory. How? When Jesus Christ returns to take back what’s his. When Jesus comes back to restore all of creation and reconcile it with God, the Father. At that time, Jesus will declare that the victory is already his—always has been—and the rest of the world will finally realize. As it’s written:

Therefore God exalted him to the highest place and gave him the name that is above every name, that at the name of Jesus every knee should bow, in heaven and on earth and under the earth, and every tongue acknowledge that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God the Father.

PHilippians 2:9-11 (NIV)

Imagine my wonder at this realization. I never thought to look at it that way before. While the dark feeling of the temple didn’t disappear, I was comforted by God’s gentle reminder of His power and sovereignty.

Humbled Before God

This trip humbled me. I was grateful, and suddenly aware of my place in life. Seeing the people of Bangkok reminded me of the privilege I have as a Caucasian female living in Japan. I remembered the safety I have in knowing God and being saved by Jesus. This safety is something that most people in Bangkok don’t have.

It was a great opportunity for spiritual growth, but it was also a difficult environment to swallow. And Bangkok isn’t even a poor, dysfunctional city. I can’t even imagine traveling somewhere that is truly poor and broken down.

But I will take this trip in stride, and give praise to God for His care and sovereignty, and for His grace-filled teachings in all circumstances.